The appointment of Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh as the new creative directors of Nina Ricci was quite strange. The duo is known for their menswear and Nina Ricci is one of those decades-old haute couture brands that are decidedly feminine. This wild juxtaposition of talent and identity led to a confusing Fall 2019 collection from the beloved Parisienne house. On one end, their modern takes to haute couture techniques were somewhat delightful, such as the menswear approach to couture craftsmanship as well as their surprising array of delicate and lightly looks. The swirls of tulle that almost enveloped the models were endlessly fascinating, provoking one to question how such airiness was possible in the first place. A camel monochrome suit, on the other hand, was classic Nina Ricci in its definitive shape yet delicate coloring. But on the other end of this spectrum, one can’t help but notice the stark similarities presented here with that of Demna Gvasalia‘s own spins on couture at Balenciaga. Add to that the fact that this was a largely masculine show for a brand known for its superfluous femininity. So while the design duo’s first effort for the brand was commendable, it’s clear they still have a lot to learn in order to fit in the house.
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
