No, you don’t have to rub your eyes to see clearly. As surprising as it was, John Galliano finally delivered a commercially viable collection for Maison Martin Margiela. This isn’t to say, however, that he lost his experimental touch—far from it! Here, he twisted, turned, and put traditional tailoring on its head. What might look like (and feel like) ordinary coats and suits were actually results of comprehensive studies on the centuries-old craft. And the best part? Everything about his Fall 2019 show was wearable, effortless, and inclusive. Take the second look of a skirt-suit, for instance. With its boxy shape, it almost looks military-esque in construction, but the roundness of its armhole, as well as the contrast of materials between the suit and the sleeves, give it more dimension than your regular ensemble. A similarly-crafted trench coat with back sleeves, on the other hand, is one of the more inclusive of the lot. Its distinct silhouette makes it seem like a coat-dress—feminine yet precise. But pair it with nice trousers and it automatically becomes a rigorous piece of outwear that’s stereotypically masculine. It’s these kinds of ironies and juxtapositions that make Galliano’s Margiela infinitely more fascinating than similarly “intellectual” brands. And now that his pieces this season are wearable on the street, the retail success of such come fall is bound to go through the roof!
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
