Creativity can often cloud a designer’s mind so much that he designs an overwhelming collection with so much to unpack. And during Pitti Uomo, the designer in question was Y/Project‘s Glenn Martens. His Fall 2019 Menswear show was certainly a feast for the eyes, but whether it was a good or bad feast remains to be seen. This was far from his strongest collection, yet there were still a lot of strong moments. The tailoring, for instance, was strong and strict. It elongated the male and female forms to distinguished air that only rigid pieces can produce. For the men, there were streamlined suits and coats with strong shoulders, while for the women, structured frocks that had feminine shapes to them. On the other side of the spectrum, however, there were a lot of looks and items that were definitely ghastly. The terrible use of prints, the almost-cartoonish oversized sportswear, and the frizzy knitwear (that looked itchy even from afar) were all just awful. They looked irrelevant and ridiculous, and had this been a brand known for its sense of humor, they would have been great jokes. Unfortunately, they weren’t, and customers will have to risk seeing them in the stores come fall when they go for the better and more tailored prizes in this line.
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch / Gorunway.com
