Italian company Ermenegildo Zegna and American homegrown talent Thom Browne made the news after the former’s historic purchase of the latter on the last week of August. It was, to date, the biggest buy of Zegna in its a hundred and so years of history, the European textile company calling it an expensive but worthy acquisition that will serve well in pushing forward the goals of both companies. For his part, the eponymous owner of the niche American brand is very thrilled in the prospects that has opened for them in light of this development. Zegna currently has the largest stake at 85%, while the remaining 15% still stays with the renowned designer.
An unpremeditated partnership
Thom Browne’s company is relatively young compared to most established brands—Mr. Browne only began his business in 2001, first as an exclusively menswear brand that expanded into womenswear two years later. It has gained quite a following in and beyond the United States, a respected list that includes the likes of Michelle Obama, Lebron James, Solange Knowles and Brooke Shields, and yet, Thom Browne largely remains a niche brand. The coming together of Zegna and Thom Browne opens the possibility of changing that.
The two companies weren’t knocking on each other’s doors previously, but the recent development was welcomed by both parties with open arms. The Italian company was looking to appeal to more areas and to the younger market, while Thom Browne can certainly benefit from being under a company the size of Ermenegildo Zegna. Smaller luxury houses have been struggling in the past years to remain visible in the midst of technological advances, and the resources offered by Zegna will make keeping up easier for Thom Browne. Both operate under a commitment to deliver uncompromising quality in their apparel and their unique visions, and so, in spite Zegna having the bigger share in the business, the American label will still run independently. The designer behind the name will still be the company’s creative director, and Rodrigo Bazan will remain in his capacity as the CEO.
Maintaining the repute for a visionary
The acquisition of the largely family-operated Ermenegildo Zegna does good for both Thom Browne and the industry in general. Not only will Thom Browne have the resources to continue with his vision, fashion would also not be losing a creative talent in a market that is focused on conformity, and heavily reliant on social media and influencers.
In the company’s less than two decades of existence, it has made a reputation for the unorthodox. Thom Browne did not allow himself to restrained by convention, resulting in apparel that has just the right mix of avant-garde, provocation and humor. He has also refused to go down the road usually taken by other luxury companies, and instead opted to focus on what he does best. With trends in casualwear becoming quite repetitive, tastemakers and followers will seek out more unique points of view in time, something that the brand has done in the last decade or so, and has earned it loyal customers, only now with greater support and means to do so.
Image credits: Thom Browne, Dorothy Hong, Landon Nordeman
