One of this year’s biggest fashion disappointments was Hedi Slimane’s reinvention of Celine, a sentiment echoed not by one, not by two, but countless fashion journalists and aficionados. Phoebe Philo effortless elegance gained much acclaim and a sizable following during her time as the house’s creative director that the reaction to the dramatic change from her style to Slimane’s was unsurprising. All is not lost, however, now that we have a rising designer in our midst, and in someone long considered as Philo’s protege at that. But we’ll have to divert our attention from Celine to stealth luxury brand Bottega Veneta, which is where Daniel Lee is now gaining traction as its new creative director.
Bottega Veneta may not generate as much controversy and pizzazz unlike its other fellow Italian brands, but it has been consistent in delivering just what its fans are looking for. Lee continues the tradition, but he also offers a collection which many may have hoped to follow the Philo era for French brand Celine. Comparisons have been made between “Old Celine” and Bottega Veneta Pre-Fall 2019 collection, which means that the focus is on the clothes rather than the gimmick. Even the runway production was lowkey, and the brand chooses not to depend on celebs for promotion. Even if the situation is the opposite, it would be hard to take away the attention from the garments and the accessories, which is just as it should be.
Based on the photos we have seen so far, Lee puts an emphasis on the house’s intrecciato weave, combined with modern but toned down colors in the likes of espresso, caramel and amber. The leather on the collection looks plain lovely, especially on the quilted skirts, shoes and jackets. This applies to garments for both women and men, the latter especially a surprise because most thought Lee would focus on womenswear. And we’re glad to be wrong, because we’re looking forward to sharp but also modern pieces for men. We have the classic selection, such as the turtlenecks and trousers that is just what we came to expect from the brand, as well as chunky sneakers and activewear that do not seem to be too jarring compared to the available alternatives.
We would have to wait some more weeks before we see the complete collection during the upcoming Milan Fashion Week, although from what we have at the moment, the odds look promising. The influence of Philo as Lee’s mentor is unmistakable, especially in the relaxed yet sleek feeling we have for the latter’s creations. But Lee’s approach still shines, especially with menswear.
Daniel Lee is a name many people are not too familiar with until now, and is one of Kering’s relatively unknown recruits just like Alessandro Michele was prior to getting his stint as Gucci’s creative director. He follows the steps that German designer Tomas Maier left this 2018 after 17 long and memorable years. During his stint, Maier was credited for putting the brand back on the radar with his direct yet sophisticated take on fashion. The move to put Lee on the lead is one that’s not bound to disappoint followers of the Italian fashion house as well as a means to rebrand. Despite Gucci leading the pack of luxury brands so far, Kering knows that it also has to focus and further develop labels under its group for further profits. The Central Saint Martins-educated Lee is a great choice not only for his experience with Celine where he previously had the title design director of womenswear, but also for his time with Balenciaga, Maison Margiela and Donna Karan.
Lee, who was interviewed by Vogue last month, summarizes what he’s shooting for with Bottega Veneta, “For me right now, designing real clothes is more exciting than a fashion message. We really need to establish who our icons are and have a bit of an immediacy around the clothes. I really want to evoke a kind of youthful determination in the work.” Appointed in June, Lee upholds the history and identity of the brand, makes his mark without taking a drastic change from his predecessor, and proves to be a breath of fresh air from the extremes—either boring or uncomfortable—we’ve been accustomed to in fashion.
Bottega Veneta Pre-fall 2019 Collection
Image credits: Bottega Veneta
