The somber tone that started Raf Simons’ Fall 2019 Menswear show could be forgiven—it was his first outing and public appearance after his humiliating dismissal from Calvin Klein. But during and after the show, the designer stressed that he didn’t want to wallow into the mercy of the fahsion press. “I don’t want to be negative,” he shared. And so after a few looks of funeral-esque black and navy ensembles came a parade of vibrant colors, elegant silhouettes, and a whole lot rebellion. The brightness of his hues matched perfectly with the dominant shapes that frequently ran through the show. And while it had potential to look like a tragic 80s rehash, Simons’ own designs were contemporary, new, and emotional. The elegant elongation made everything infinitely chicer, without, however, sacrificing the subversive masculinity that underlined the clothes. The tailoring here was superb, with every corner precise and every cut had an edge to it that was undeniably refined. His textiles, as per usual, were luxurious, especially buttery navy green leather cut into a long coat. There was so much to love in this Raf Simons show that it was easy to forget the recent blow he faced with a megabrand. Maybe, for all intents and purposes, Simons should just focus on his own brand. He seems to be the strongest at it anyways!
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
