“Grunge doesn’t have to look old and like it’s falling apart; it’s the attitude,” insisted Luke Meier. You may not suspect it upon first glance, but his Fall 2019 Menswear collection for OAMC was inspired by the revived 90s trend. But instead of harkening back to its sartorial codes, however, Meier focused his attention on recreating the attitude behind the trend in informing his highly contemporary line. Evidently, his own design aesthetic has become influenced by his own work for Jil Sander, but his own grungy attitude still resonated with a more modern vibe. For one thing, his silhouettes remained long and lean—as are in his collections for the Milanese label—yet the almost dominating shapes combined with the somber, arguably bland, color palette revealed a nonchalant emotion that’s well within the grunge identity. Even with the blowing up of the plaids and the logo-ed sweaters, the clothes remained contemporary but the attitude behind them was classic grunge. Ironically enough, the best pieces in this line were the ones farthest from the narrative but were undeniably desirable: a stark white leather coat and a plush oversized sweater with a drawing of a dove on it. They might not be grunge but they sure do look grand!
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
