Markus Lupfer laid out an important lesson this season on what not to do with layering. The looks in his Fall 2019 collection were simply too heavy, to the point that even the least-layered numbers looked uncomfortable at first glance. The pieces themselves were alright—slightly mediocre but the impeccable construction made up for them a bit. The styling and the overall approach, however, were severely misguided. Firstly, it was quite disappointing to see Lupfer engage in the oversized over-layering craze the streetwear movement has inflicted upon high fashion. It was clear from the first look alone—a bulky black coat over a neon lime green top and a frumpy calf-length skirt—that this designer had no place undertaking this trend whatsoever. His strength lies in creating floaty frocks and sleek silhouettes that evoke a classic sense of sophistication. Here, there was nothing classic nor sophisticated about anything. The dresses were unremarkable, the prints were just pedestrian at best, and the fur details and accessories were better off not having existed at all. It’s a shame that this is how he celebrated his 20th-anniversary in the industry. But he need not worry, as we’re confident he’ll have another two decades to go back to his elegant style where he belongs!
Photo: Courtesy of Markus Lupfer