For Fall 2019, designer Kirk Millar took on the tragic yet ostentatious idea of the Romanovs as inspiration. But instead of presenting a well-made opulent wardrobe as many would expect with such a reference, Millar deconstructed the notions of wealth, power, and exuberance and turned them into streetwear staples for Linder. There were still hints of classic wealth in the mix, such as the sublimely luxurious silk scarves worn as both accessories and as twisted tops on frail effeminate male bodies, and fur hats and stoles that were as vintage as can be. Despite the tragic narrative, the colors were quite bright and vivid here, like the vibrant crimson that colored a well-tailored set of separates and a multi-colored block striped sweater. But even with such a specific idea in mind, the collection as a whole seemed incoherent and downright confusing. There were some desirable pieces here and there—especially the outerwear—but in essence, there were too many ideas, inconsistent to say the least, that made the overall impact weaker than realized. No doubt the streetwear pieces will sell, but if this young brand wants to make a dent on the fashion industry, they’re going to have to do a lot better in the next few seasons.
Photo: Courtesy of Linder