It was only earlier this year when Riccardo Tisci was announced to succeed Christopher Bailey as the creative director for Burberry, and he and the label have already made headlines to signal the ending of an era for the heritage brand. First, the Italian designer unveiled the new logo Burberry will now be embracing, made in collaboration with Peter Saville, the English graphic designer and artist responsible for some of the most memorable record sleeves ever released by Manchester-based record label Factory Records. After receiving due criticism for burning previously unsold items, including beauty products in the past years, the brand has also declared to change its ways in conjunction with its announcement of going fur-free. As the London Fashion Week drew near, the anticipation for Tisci’s debut on the runway as the creative lead of Burberry grew even more.
When the day of reckoning finally arrived, what we saw was not that much of a sharp turn from the old Burberry. And yet, there was enough new material to truly say goodbye to the pre-new logo label and place high hopes in what could be a reinvigoration for the brand. By the end of the week-long LFW, it became the most talked about presentation, even with Victoria Beckham taking her label to the British capital after 10 years. The opinion has been mostly positive, even in the wealth of checks and beige.
British identities in one
Instead of sticking to one theme for the show, Tisci resorted to bringing together the many facets of the British lifestyle. There’s the stereotypical suave, sharply dressed man, as well as women who look lovely in preppy blouses and accompanying pleated skirts. The presentation is also a showcase of the nation’s rebellious side, bringing to the forefront punk styles.
The Italian designer is well acquainted with British sensibilities, having graduated from London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins. And as much as he is familiar with the Victorian and the hoity toity way of dressing, he has also been inspired by the outliers. In fact, one of his design inspirations was the UK’s very own rebel designer, Vivienne Westwood, and it shows in Burberry’s latest studded pieces and leather garments. Tisci announced that there would be a collaboration with the Queen of Punk, although the pieces are reserved for a future collection.
Tisci’s debut collection also does not discriminate against age. In fact, in Tisci’s vision, Burberry should be for all generations, able to dress both the mother and the child. According to the designer, this is just in line to what fashion should be, covering many bases regardless of personality and generation. This has been translated quite well into the runway featuring 133 pieces of Burberry.
Tisci-stamped Burberry pieces
The show, dubbed in totality as the “Kingdom”, was parted into three sections. The very first, which was called “Refined” brought out everything the brand has been known for even before Tisci became the creative director. For the uninitiated, that means the signature check, the color beige, the iconic Burberry trench coat and generally British tailoring. The second and the third parts, called “Relaxed” and “Evening” respectively, were where Tisci let himself have more freedom to employ his signature styles.
“Relaxed” and “Evening” were more familiar territories to Tisci, featuring streetwear, athleisure and eveningwear. We’ve got a taste of punk, mixed in with the designer’s penchant for animal prints, in both the clothing and the accessories. There were edgy slip dresses, animal print tees, leather skirts, among others. The accessories include belt-bags, which are now coming back with a vengeance as well as British passports styled as necklaces, just when you think it couldn’t convey how British the entire collection is. The usual sightings on your wardrobe such as bags, shoes and belts were also covered.
The Burberry collection under Tisci may be seen as not too revolutionary compared to his work with Givenchy. After all, the pieces basically had the same characteristics as the Burberry we’ve known, although improved and modernized by its new director. However, this can be seen as paying tribute to the enduring legacy of the brand; there are some things that are not worth removing especially when it’s as defining as the Burberry trench coat. Tisci seems to have injected some sensuality into the classic pieces, like its suits and skirts, while still remaining refined, making the collection more relevant today.
Shop the Latest Burberry Collection at Nordstrom
Image credits: Benjamin Lozovsky/BFA/REX/Shutterstock, Niklas Halle’N/AFP/Getty Images, Cleo Glover for W Magazine, Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP, Isabel Infantes/PA, Burberry, Getty Images
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The TB detail belt for ‘Kingdom’, the #Burberry Spring/Summer 2019 collection
