The house of Emilio Pucci has gone a long way since it was established mid-20th-century. In some cases, this is good, but in the case of Fall 2019, it’s quite bad. Without a creative director leading the way, the design team currently behind the brand wasn’t able to come up with a distinct message this season. They were, however, inspired by Japan, as seen on the kimono-esque Pucci-printed robes and dresses and the slick leather outerwear that’s often seen on the streets of Tokyo and Osaka. Such pieces, unfortunately, were not enough to make the entire collection seem desirable. The puckering of the seams of the satin pieces and the unflattering proportions of the printed evening frocks are evidence of shockingly poor construction, as well as questionable taste choices in terms of quality fabrication. Add to that the fact that there were little to no interesting ideas that pushed the envelope in terms of fashion norms—these were simply rehashes of Pucci archives made shorter and more revealing for the millennial audience. The collection and the current state of the label is proof that no matter the circumstances, a creative director is needed to stabilize and bring a decades-old fashion house forward.
Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com