The London Fashion Show tends to be dwarfed by its counterparts in New York, Paris and Milan. This year is not that year, however, even if we’re basing the claim off on its most memorable Spring 2019 collections alone. Besides being the fashion week of choice by new and emerging designers, the LFW September 2018 schedule is also filled with highly anticipated presentations from already established maisons, including one homegrown label and perhaps the most associated with the British capital out of them all: Burberry. In between animal prints and checks, ruffles and veils, puffs and bright colors, here are five collections from the LFW that left us in complete and utter awe.
Since assuming the creative helm of Burberry, Riccardo Tisci’s debut has people highly excited. It’s easy to fall short of such expectations, but Tisci delivered with flying colors despite the abundance of beige. It deserved to be generate as much buzz before and even after the show because the Italian designer brought back Burberry to the game by putting into play the many sides of being British. Tisci was no stranger to the eclectic, as proven by his 12-year stint over at Givenchy, and his experience indubitably helped the show mix several themes of varying degrees in formality, from punk to refined. The presentation had models clad in pieces with Burberry’s signature check, the newly introduced logo by Tisci himself, as well as theatrical gowns, all available for purchase right after the fashion show.
The collection Erdem brought to the LFW was inspired by two British personalities whose speculated lives caused quite a controversy back in the day. Frederick Park and Ernest Boulton, often referred to as their alter-egos Fanny and Stella, were Victorian cross-dressers accused of engaging in homosexual acts, then considered crimes in England well into the 20th century. The whole presentation was a combination of puffy sleeves and skirts, beautiful prints reminiscent of English gardens, and delicate lace. The ultra-feminine, romantic and colorful presentation can also be interpreted as Erdem Moralioglu way of standing up against right-wing politics and a reminder of the long way humans have come in championing certain freedoms.
Victoria Beckham’s Spring collection was everything we expected, and more. This year is a momentous one for the posh designer now that her label has reached 10 years. To celebrate the occasion, Beckham took her presentation to her home country after almost a decade of choosing to do the show in New York. The collection was full of versatile, crisp and minimalist pieces, all of which the designer herself would wear, and what she’d imagine her followers would be willing to try on, too. Despite fans of the brand mostly being millennials and younger, Victoria is targeting to become more inclusive by having silhouettes that would also work for older generations. The anniversary show was held right beside the Victoria Beckham boutique at Dover Street, where new items immediately became available upon the show’s conclusion.
For her label’s latest Spring collection, Simone Rocha looked within herself and explored her Chinese heritage, finding inspiration in the Tang dynasty and even the Chinese counterpart of Day of the Dead, Qingming. She cites an image of concubines in particular for some designs in her collection. Models walked in bulky silhouettes, made even bigger in their presence because of the lovely veils, as well as floral patterns predominantly featured in Eastern art. The entire collection reeks of the haunting and the spiritual.
In what is lauded as the label’s best show in seasons, JW Anderson’s Spring collection treads carefully in crafting clothes with complex construction yet are still simple and easy to wear everyday. Not wanting to intimidate the women who may purchase pieces from the brand, JW Anderson gives a bohemian touch to the garments to give them a more relatable vibe. There are a myriad of colors, patterns and prints on the shirts, trousers and dresses, some of which could easily transition from off-duty to workwear. They can work with layers or even as a standalone piece.
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