Patina, the thin layer of green film used by artisans to strengthen the color of their works, was the starting point of Berluti’s Fall 2019 Menswear Collection. Creative director Kris Van Assche examined how the craftsmen in the Berluti factory used the said material to further push the vibrancy and shine of the label’s premier footwear. This season, he applied them to his well-cut suits and outerwear as well. The first look alone—a chocolate brown leather suit—extraordinarily shimmered as the model walked down the runway. From that point on, color (as much as shine) became one of the major stars of the show. The suit that followed the aforementioned first look, a much sleeker iteration in a rich shade of magenta with a plum shirt underneath, had that vibrancy that Assche probably saw in the factory. As did the toned-down mustard yellow hues on a free-form trench and hoodie, the cobalt blue on a ribbed knit dress, and the bright crimson color on a striking oversized coat. Such hues further pushed the luxury narrative to a more approachable and eye-catching vibe, as if to attract both young and the young-at-heart alike. Even the women who wore menswear-like suits looked extremely modern, which was a nice contrasting feature to what has been a classically masculine fashion house. But whether or not Berluti is gearing for a more youth-oriented market is another story, the focus here should be on the clothes, which will probably see a lot of retail success come fall!
Photo: Alessandro Viero / Gorunway.com
