Regulars of the New York Fashion Week expressed sorrow at Proenza Schouler’s decision to transfer to Paris two seasons ago. The brand was not the only one to make the change; other American labels such as Thom Browne and Rodarte also took their collections previously to Paris. Thankfully, it was a move that Proenza Schouler’s founders, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, acknowledged was not meant to last forever. The recently concluded NYFW saw its return after undergoing its version of a soul searching in the City of Lights.
Always on the move
When Proenza Schouler moved to Paris Fashion Week, the brand was at a point when it felt gutsy to experiment. Like many things, fashion is not static; for a label to survive, it has to stir things a little. Paris, compared to New York, felt foreign and had a broader audience. Hernandez and McCollough both thought that the city provided enough space for trying to do things differently, which was what they just needed.
The brand does not operate like other established labels where a new creative direction is taken by changing who’s at its helm. It was the duo who undertook the creative challenge themselves. It was a personal career move as much as it was a business take because the designers feel they can end up more engaged with what they’re doing and are more likely to overcome stumps to come. The decision to return to New York is pretty much taken from the same line of reasoning, besides the fact that they have actually missed the city. The two refuse to assure permanency however, as it recognizes that being fluid can only be beneficial to the brand.
Desirable, accessible, and full of character
The brand, fresh from Europe, returns to New York determined to make a few changes while still upholding the reputation it has previously established.
The duo thinks that the change will be outwardly obvious, given the realizations they had in Paris. Rather than creating pieces to introduce completely new looks, Proenza Schouler will focus on building wardrobes. Hernandez and McCollough want them to be real and of the times. While the industry has no shortage in remarkable creations, the work elevated to that of an artisan’s is often beyond reach for most. Proenza Schouler wants to strike just the right balance among expert craftsmanship, desirability, and affordability, which in turn would encourage consumers’ engagement in their chosen Proenza Schouler clothes.
The brand’s comeback show communicates this. Rather than mark the event with a bang, the two designers have opted for a toned down, more intimate gathering at 30 Wall Street. The collection has also been more American than ever. The Spring collection features wardrobe staple denim on its various pieces and allows the material to shine all on its own, doing away with ornaments and glitters. Proenza Schouler takes all-American into another level by also maintaining the creation and production in the United States.
Featured image credits: Image credits: Getty Images, Bebeto Matthews, AP.
